Category Archives: Just a Thought

Who’s the client ?

Continue reading …: Who’s the client ?

So who is the client on a shoot ?
Well ultimately I suppose it is the guy who pays the invoice.
But that is too simple a way of looking at what can be a very confused dynamic..

Let’s take the tough example of photographing Peaches VanDoren – it’s a spread for a glossy ladies fashion mag.
Peaches is being offered a silly sum of money to wear some clothes by a High Street chain store and the shoot is to be done at a trendy nightclub in London.
Let’s see who the interested parties are:
Your client – probably the magazine who will have sent their art director; he/she has a layout already in mind, can visualise the pix in their head before a light has been turned on
Her agent, will turn up and warn you, ‘sotto-voce’, that as Peaches is secretly three months pregnant, under no circumstances can you photograph her from the side.
Peaches probably has a public relations person as well and the stuff they can come out with will make your ears bleed !
Then the fashion house people will appear – mob handed probably with arms full of coat hangers. They will have a LOT to say about what the picture should look like. One of their fitters will almost certainly notice that the clothes are a size 10 and that Peaches now appears to be a size 12.
The club owner, who is related to a mafia boss, will waft in with a tray of drinks and mention to you, just in passing of course, that he wants his place to look “good”. He infers that if you succeed in visually promoting his business he will look fondly upon you and bless your house ; he doesn’t mention that if you don’t succeed you may need private health care.
Make-up and wardrobe will waft in, fragrant, noisy and invariably bitchy.
They will invariably duck into a shot just as you think it’s about to ‘happen’, and tweak hair or apply an extra layer of blusher
Don’t imagine that they will keep their opinions to themselves either.
Peaches, if you’re lucky, will only be an hour or two late, but totally ignoring her tardiness will launch into complaining about whatever comes into her mind.
You, meanwhile, are immediately struck by how much much better she looks in her pictures than she does in real life !
She will probably ignore you and chat loudly with her agent and make demands of everyone around her.
Tea, earl grey, lemon, china cup, blah blah whatever – If you are new to this you will look on in open mouthed amazement.
There are probably a dozen people in the location now plus you and your assistants(s)
If you think you’re going to have any input into this shoot you have to start making an impression pretty damn soon.
Making your assistants scurry around with lights and shouting a lot is one approach – can be fun but your assistants will hate you and you need friends on your side.

(Be aware though; assistants are wannabe photographers and some are quite capable of undermining you in the hope of stealing your clients !!  It’s brutal, so watch out for that.)
Do you have friends here ?
People with whom you already have a working rapport ?
If so keep them close.

So who are you going to listen to ?
So many choices eh !
It would be easy to say “the person who is paying your bill”, but it’s rarely that simple.
The dynamic of a shoot is complicated.
So what have we got to consider here ?
If you have never worked with Peaches before you have to get her agent on side first as she knows Peaches and how to handle her.
Which buttons she has to push to get her on side.
If you want Peaches to smile rather than scowl it’s best to say to her agent that it maybe better to “lighten the mood” with this outfit and portray a happier vibe.
Chances are Peaches will have very defined ideas of how she should look and what she should wear and will make a big production of telling everyone.
But at the end of the day it’s down to the chemistry you can generate between you and Peaches.
Charm and chat, whilst ensuring the products look good too.

It’s not just about you being the best photographer in the world – it’s more about managing people.
Build relationships – know who is who and what value the are to the shoot.
Watch out for problems that are occurring or are likely to occur.
Tensions runs high and you’re in the firing line.
It’s important to know what the magazine folk are expecting from the shoot.
What the Fashion House wants to gain from this expensive location shoot.
The location and club owner are low on the list of priorities, as are the make-up and hair stylists.
Agents and PR people contribute little in this environment but they are useful allies.
Peaches ? well at the end of the day she is just an expensive clothes rail, but her face and figure are possibly world famous and these pix are going to be good for your career.

So be nice, even if you are gritting your teeth.
Good luck – it’s a jungle out there.

Equipment – Photo Jacket from Paramo

Continue reading …: Equipment – Photo Jacket from Paramo

IMG_6878As many of you know I headed off to the
“Visa pour L’image”
festival of photo-journalism in Perpignan this year.
It’s something I’ve been promising myself for quite some time – a chance to catch up with some old colleagues and share a yarn or two (some of them with a basis in fact).
Another thing I’ve been meaning to treat myself to has been a photography jacket and this was a good opportunity to combine the two.
(What follows should be in my section on Equipment Reviews but I can’t remember how to do that.)
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After a bit of research and due to the fact that I had seen a Halcon Traveler Jacket at a photo show I bought this model online.
It’s made by Paramo, which is a British company with a good record for designing practical, hard wearing outdoor clothing.

It is expensive at £130, especially when you compare it with other products available but this is a quality product and backed by a reputable company.

(It had better be – ‘cos I have a bone to pick with them when I get home, but more of that later).
Ordered it directly from Paramo themselves and delivery was within two days.
I ordered the grey rather than the army green as I feel there is always a bit of a danger looking too “militaristic” in a conflict area – besides it matches my hair.
Had a couple of days to try it out in the calm of Surrey before heading off to France and found it was a good fit except the sleeves are too long by a couple of inches.
You may say that is because of a fault in my design rather than Paramo’s and you may be right but I did think the sleeves were unnaturally long.
I have worn the sleeves rolled up ever since I got it.
Body fit – Size L was spot on.
Materials used throughout appear to be first class and you can tell it is made to last.
Of course the main thing about a jacket like this is storage space.
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Well, there is certainly a lot of that, and it has been well thought out.
There are four large external pouch pockets (with two popper fasteners per pocket) – any of which would hold a lens, but my favourites are the inside ones and the zipped units.
At chest level are four zipped pockets, vast capacious things for maps, documents, passport, valuables, lenses, if you want.

A "selfie" with Halcon Traveler jacket. Perpignan

A “selfie” with Halcon Traveler jacket. Perpignan

Also on the inside are two below waist pockets, one each side, with elastic tops – this was where
I in fact carried my other lenses and they were just fine.
As you may imagine if you start putting lenses in your pockets the jacket is going to “balloon” out a bit but Paramo have considered this and built a rear bum flap that can be released with poppers to allow the jacket a bit more freedom of movement.
There is also an elasticated draw string which I discovered a week later that cinches the waist in for a trimmer appearance. This drawstring is hiding in two further pockets which I simple hadn’t noticed up until then – on any other jacket you’d probably call them hand warmer pockets and they are below waist and behind the two bottom pouch pockets.
Frankly you can get so much gear in this array of pockets you may not have to take a suitcase !
And with the way some airlines charge for excess weight you can safely stick all your heavy stuff in there and keep your cases light.
The jacket boasts that due to its unique design it distributes the weight evenly across the shoulders – well I found that more of a marketing idea than a real benefit but I can’t fault them for trying.
So after three weeks what do I think.
Yes, this is a good jacket.
It could be even better by making the sleeves zip-in and removeable and perhaps have some ventilation built into the sides, also via zips. Remember I have been in the South of France where temperatures haven’t dropped much below 24 and were frequently much higher, so I have a particular viewpoint on temperature management.
It is not waterproof and makes no claim to be.
If it were, it would be much hotter to wear.
On the occasion when it did rain here (tipped down) I put a poncho over the top.
I’m not convinced by the poppers to close off the pockets.
I found myself on a couple of occasions fiddling one handed trying to align them to secure the pocket. … Personally I’m a velcro fan.
I’m not sure about the collar.

Paramo Halcon Traveler Jacket collar

Paramo Halcon Traveler Jacket collar

It has a nice soft lining so nothing chafes the skin but it is neither a stand up nor a sit down sort of thing. Seems to have no function that I can see.
If perhaps it had a rain hood built into it that may be handy, but as the jacket itself is not weatherproof that may just be silly.
Biggest problem I’ve had, (apart from the one I’m coming to …),  is there are so many pockets I keep losing things.
I just can’t remember which of the 12 cubby holes I’ve put something into.
Once again you can put that down to operator error and I can’t really blame Paramo for designing such an accommodating equipment hotel, but on occasion I have actually sworn at the jacket and tried to pass the blame onto it for hiding my stuff.
This is not a winter jacket and you need to remember that if you’re off to the Balkans.
You will need clothing underneath or over the top if you want to be warm.
And if you want to be dry … well that’s another problem.
This is not an all weather jacket, doesn’t pretend to be, so don’t get confused into thinking it maybe.
We are all looking for that perfect jacket that we can wear to a war zone or a wedding and hold all our gear but let’s face it, it doesn’t exist.
For all round practicality though this takes quite a bit of beating – if you have £130 handy.

Except ….For me the only real problem, and I’m sure it’s a one off and won’t happen to you, is the main zip.
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The double toggled zip that closes the jacket.
It doesn’t work.
It’s a zip fault.
It wont engage.
Sometimes it won’t disengage.
I’ve spent frantic minutes aligning the ends and further minutes tugging at the thing – I’ve just about given up.
Yesterday I wanted the jacket closed as I really didn’t want anything flapping around.
(Bull running in the streets of Arles – another story)
So that night after managing to get the zip to engage it wouldn’t come undone so I had to unload my pockets of gear in a restaurant and take the jacket off over my head – very chic.
The problem was never apparent earlier as the weather was so warm I left the jacket open to allow air through just about all the time.
First thing I do on getting back to the UK is give Paramo a friendly call.

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Oscar

Continue reading …: Oscar

Yes, Oscar is my new grandson’s name.
Here at The GBs home we are all staggering around in a state of dazed wonder.
Any how I’m sure we’ll come back to earth soon enough.
Meantime I’ll tell you the details, add a few snaps (yes, I’m afraid they are just snaps) and try to move on without boring you all with the minutiae of our family life.

Oscar weighed in at 7 lbs 9 ozs at 4.45 am on the 12th August 2014

Flamenco Guitar Juan Martin

Continue reading …: Flamenco Guitar Juan Martin

Sunday 27 July – went to photograph world renowned flamenco guitarist Juan Martin.

Juan Martin is reckoned to be one of the foremost flamenco guitarists in the world so as part of my personal mission to document flamenco I arranged to meet up with him whilst he was in London.
He was actually teaching a Masterclass on behalf of the International Guitar Federation at KIng’s Place near St Pancras. A group of a dozen guitar aficionados had gathered to worship at his feet and learn just how it should be done.
Flamenco is normally considered to be the fusion of three arts:
Dance – Baile
Song – Cante
Guitar – Guitarra
Surprisingly, for some people the guitar is the lesser of the flamenco arts and it is the song and dance that holds the emotion.
I don’t know enough about it to express an opinion but was quickly aware that I was in the presence of someone who can make a guitar sing.
You will notice in the pictures the length of the nails on his right hand, especially his thumb.
They are very important to a flamenco guitarist and are jealously maintained.”So what do you do if you break one ?”
“Superglue !”

Update:  Some keen photo-folk want to know the equipment I used on this shoot so I have added a little addendum at the bottom of this blog.

Check out his video on YouTube where Juan describes the art of flamenco guitar far better than I can.
Link Here


All pix shot on the Nikon D800 (which is my most favourite camera ever) using either the old Nikon 85mm f1.8 (had it for 20+ years) or the Nikon 24-70mm f 2.8 zoom.
Lighting was supplied by my Godox battery flash units, which I reviewed at the end of last year – they worked really well.
Set at 1/16th power I was getting F7.1 at 200asa
Using a smallish beauty dish (similar to this one) and a honeycomb ( like this ) as the main light source quite close to the subject (about 1m – 1.5m).
At this range the fall-off of light was quite severe which is what I wanted and enabled me to keep much of the subject in shadow.
(I  had a softbox too, but found that it was much harder to control the light spill.)
For fill light I had a single Lastolite reflector on a stand
I also used another head to add some light from behind and lift his dark hair from the black background. This head was also used with a small reflector dish and a honeycomb grid to control the spill.
Any questions – just drop me a line and I’ll get back to you asap.

Flamenco – a start

Continue reading …: Flamenco – a start

Well as some of you know I’ve been talking about a personal project for some time now and I have finally got the photography off the ground.
By joining a flamenco group in London I have been able to attend and photograph my first public performance, last Sunday. Continue reading

David Bailey – Stardust or Bullshit

Continue reading …: David Bailey – Stardust or Bullshit

I did my degree in photography at the end of the 60’s – yes the Swinging Sixties when all eyes were on London, the capital of cool.
I was doing the coolest degree in the coolest country.
And the King of Cool, the man who had just stepped out of the fridge, was Bailey.
Continue reading